Paris Homme: Day 3 with Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton and Issey Miyake
On the busy schedule for the third day of Paris Menswear Week, 10 of the 12 houses on the official calendar presented their collections online without a live audience. We went through the top three. There, the important message was “to make yourself real”.
Rick Owens: Beach Eco-Disco Warrior
Menswear in Paris, presented at Lido Beach in Venice, the lagoon town where Rick Owens lived for six months, was able to boast a live show from a great designer on Thursday.
California designers have been twisted with considerable abandonment as Owens wants to return to Paris for a live show during fall women’s ready-to-wear week, so it’s likely this will be her last show there. . It has been destroyed, destroyed and dismantled. Everything has a tremendous effect. With a generous gesture, he even invited local artist Swamp God to visit his factory near the Veneto and tear up an old stock that was supposed to be “my deconstruction deconstruction”. Rick explained.
The designer also used multiple eco-materials, from biodegradable cupro cotton waste to FSC-certified viscose. He admitted it was a new time to “try to contradict and mix Gram with responsibility and compassion.”
As a result, her gothic minimalist hero rarely looked organic. Their jeans were dragged along the rocky sands of the Lido. Their sleeveless red goats on the shoulders are almost blown away. Their fishnet tights were full of holes.
Some say the best place to wear the Rick Owens collection is at the Rick Owens show. As such, its aesthetic is demanding and as cult as its code. But a real artist’s test of what Rick is is if they can develop a strong signature style. Few designers in the world today are more distinctive using this acid test. This collection, as created by Owens, could only be created today.
Louis Vuitton: Amen Break by Virgil Abloh
Opening Shot – A guy dressed in a black suit and mask with a ceremonial samurai sword and Artful Dodger in a top hat.
According to the narrator, “the greatest samurai in the empire,” he went through a huge career and met another devious ninja character. Both covered in black, they find themselves in the false forest of silver birch trees. All models of this tree carrying bags – a bright yellow backpack. Orange leather briefcase in the shape of a box. An old fashioned striped weekend case with no wheelie.
Their outfit: A red sweater in a phone booth proclaiming “Louis Vuitton Rocks”. Finished off with a green plaid suit and samurai skirt instead of pants. Widely piped sweatpants.Yves Klein- A blue suit finished with a St. Andrew’s National Flag Scottish fur hat.
Virgil Abloh, architect and DJ with design roots in the streetwear concept, is not a born tailor. However, the collection included a double breasted jacket with a belt in a very fine Dickensian style. Pants with split seams.
In a nutshell, it’s an eye-catching commercial collection that pushes the fashion lingo forward, but it’s puzzling that a third should have been enough, but the video was supposed to be 17 minutes long. has been. When we gave it the title Amen Break, when I felt this movie needed a break.
Perhaps at a time when the digital fashion season wasn’t over, Generation X, Y, and Z designers were watching the 1966 satirical mock fashion documentary “Who Are You Polly Maggoo”. Fashion, like life, is too important not to be overlooked.
Issey Miyake: Deluxe Human Comfort Set
The latest collection of Japanese houses, titled Human Ensemble, was inspired by a careful examination of our body shape. And how, smart design can be adapted to create unique and comfortable clothing to wear.
The video for the show, made in Kazunari Tajima’s style, backed up by slide guitar blues, featured a clever first series called the Body Arch. Made from 100% recycled polyester that looks like extra high quality cardboard, each piece hugs the torso with love and softness. The cut with raglan sleeves and a fitted tunic, tops and a driver’s jacket ensure easy movement.
Other inlaid knits had a rich minimalism associated with designer label Miyake, whose clothes seemed to be instantly recognizable, even though they retired over 10 years ago.
From a bearded lumberjack, I photographed the cast of an atypical model, about thirty friends in the house, many of whom wear sunglasses in the shape of David Hockney. It was a friendly video for the brand’s creative clients.
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